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As you hit the beach, you notice that, as the power of the surf dissipates, the water is pulled back out to sea by gravity. This is not dangerous in itself - who hasn't stood in the surf, giggling, as the receding waters sucked the sand out from around our feet and tickled our toes.
That gentle surf looks benign, pleasant and cooling in the summer heat. But it's what you can't see that gets you.
Causes of Rip Currents
You don't notice that underwater obstruction - a submerged sandbar - parallel to the beach. Water is piling up on the shore-side of this obstruction. The stored (potential) energy in this water reservoir is tremendous.
And you don't see the breach in the sandbar, or the water being pulled from the reservoir in a concentrated stream flowing seaward at 8 feet per second. In this case, what you don't see can hurt you.
A rip current (it's not a rip tide) has formed here. They can also form off objects perpendicular or angular to the beach, like jetties and piers. This one, however, has manifested itself here, right where you want to swim.
The United States Life-saving Association (USLA) says that 80% of lifeguard rescues at ocean beaches happen when folks are caught in these current surges. They are also responsible for 80% of drowning deaths.
And the seas don't have to be rough. Rip currents can occur in relatively placid water conditions. As surf size increases, however, the effects of rips intensify.
But you came to swim - and you don't know what waits for you, beneath the sparkling waters.
Identifying Rip Current Conditions
The first step towards armoring yourself against rips is to recognize that they may be out there, and are usually hard to notice. But you can learn to spot the danger and avoid it.
First, try to swim where there are certified lifeguards alert and on-duty. That's not always the case, however - at some beaches there are no lifeguards. You swim at your own risk, and your safety is in your hands.
Right now, you're standing with your toes in the sea, yearning to bust the water. But you hesitate, and study the waves.
Is that an area of choppy, churning water? A strange
discolored? Does that patch of seaweed and debris seem to be moving seaward?
Could be there's a rip current present, responsible for these phenomena.
Your safety is paramount. If the evidence of your eyes indicate there may be a rip current present, swim somewhere else.
Escaping a Rip Current
But no. You're hot. You want to cool off, dang it! So you run into the surf, and hit the water in a shallow dive.
And before you can think "This was a bad idea!", you're caught in a rip current. Immediately, you're drawn
seaward with what feels like the speed of an express train.
All is not lost, however. If you keep your wits about you, you can get out of the rip current fairly easily.
Rip currents are usually fairly narrow. Swim to one side or the other and you can break free of the surge. Panicking and trying to power straight back to shore is a losing proposition. You'll just wear yourself out and weaken, and will have accomplished nothing - you'll still be caught in the rip current.
If you get too tired to keep swimming, tread water. The rip current usually dissipates just past the breaking wave line. The feeling of being pulled out to sea can be terrifying, but once past that line you should be able to swim free and get back to shore.
This is why you should never swim alone, or at least make sure there are others on the beach. If you're exhausted and think you can't make it back to shore, tread water and raise your arms over your head to signal folks ashore that you're in trouble. When someone's in the water, others who care about that person should act as spotters, and keep an eye out.
Being snared by a rip current need not end in tragedy. A little forethought and preparation can go a long way. Knowing how to identify factors pointing towards the presence of a rip current will keep you safe. Knowing how to escape one if you've misread the indicators will keep you alive.
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