Confessions of a Spice-Challenged Visitor to Mexico

 Bob Schulman

Travel editor, WatchBoom.com

huffingtonpost.com

First, let's get this straight: I really like spices. The trouble is, they don't like me. Anything with even a tiny chili in it gives me an instant heartburn. So when I'm in Mexico, enchiladas are out. So are quesadillas. Ditto for huevos rancheros. I can't even be in the same room with chipotles a la poblana.

Where can a spice-challenged traveler chow down south of the border?

As a travel writer, I've been there lots of times. Over the years I've learned to look for big hotels that cater to families -- because their restaurants tend to offer simple fare for kids. Like hamburgers, hot dogs and pepito (steak) sandwiches.

Many of Mazatlan's big hotels are in the city's 'Golden Zone.'

What about side dishes? I order papas fritas (french fried potatoes) to go with my burgers. Can't go wrong there. Well, usually.

At night, I make a bee line to restaurants of the ilk of Senor Frog's and Carlos'n Charlie's (among a bunch of fun restaurant brands in the Grupo Anderson's chain). Such places serve up stateside-type burgers and fried chicken and even fairly tame barbecue dishes, like Carlos' "Moo-Peep-Oink" (barbecued steak, chicken and ribs).Ay caramba! That one scores a big 10 on my non-spicy meter.

Munching around Mazatlan

I came across some great spots for the spice-impaired during a recent trip to western Mexico's beach resort at Mazatlan. One was a chili-less breakfast at El Shrimp Bucket in the La Siesta Hotel in the city's downtown Historic District. The restaurant has some history of its own, having opened in 1963 as the first location in what became the Grupo Anderson chain.

Spice-challenged tourists can opt for a tuna salad.

Another eatery offering my kind of dishes is a country and western version of Carlos'n Charlie's called La Casa Country. There, I chewed away on ribs to die for (but not from heartburn) while waiters dressed like cowboys pranced around doing line dances.

The next day, I walked away from the Panama Restaurant out in the Golden Zone (Mazatlan's hotel strip, about eight miles from the Historic District) without even a tinge of heart fire. Panama has three Applebee's-like restaurants around town along with nine bakeries, the latter with a menu full of sugar rolls, muffins, beignet fritters and other artery cloggers right out of the oven.

Mouth-watering gnoshes on the racks of the Panama bakery.

I should note that the places I've mentioned, like most of Mazatlan's other restaurants, typically have lots of hot Mexican stuff on their menus, too. Some also feature international gourmet dishes.

La Mazatleca, for instance, is happy to serve customers like myself a two-inch-thick filet topped with a mild Gorgonzola cheese sauce. Other customers might opt for hotties like Los Monos Biches (fried shrimp in garlic, chilis, onions and butter served with chili beans and cheese and topped with - quick, call the Fire Department -- chili-based adobo sauce).

A number of restaurants are in the city's Historic District, near the Plazuela Machado.

El Presidio, another gourmet restaurant, came up with some yummy lamb chops and a baked potato for me. More adventurous diners at this elegant, old-world mansion went for an appetizer called Fideo Seco (spicy fried Mexican noodles with grilled garlic- and chili-based Zarandeado shrimp).

Freshly caught shrimp dishes show up on just about all of Mazatlan's menus. Arguably, the area's champion shrimp joint is a place called El Cuchupetas in the little city of Villa Union about a half-hour ride from Mazatlan. There, you can get anything from just breaded shrimp (one of my favorites) to the demoniac Shrimp Diabloamong some 50 shrimp dishes.

Back in Mazatlan, Pedro & Lola on the corner of the Plazuela Machado in the Historic District serves an awesome breaded shrimp plate (all the spicy things come on the side) with the hands-down best papas fritas in town.

In a real bind, on those rare days when I simply can't find anything spice-less in Mazatlan or anyplace else in Mexico, I can get by with a bowl or two of tortilla soup.

All photos by Bob Schulman

Day of the Dead Street Walk Tomorrow Night

by Maureen Dietrich

31 Oct 14  

mazmessenger.com

 

Mazatlán’s traditional “callejoneada” through the streets of Centro Historico to view altars created by residents takes place tomorrow night (Nov. 1) beginning at 8pm in the Plazuela Machado.

The theme this year, said Cultura director Raúl Rico, is “El Carnaval de los Muertos” in homage to Rigoberto Lewis who for many years designed the primary floats for Mazatlán’s annual Carnival before he died earlier this year.

After the street walk, celebrants are invited to the Centro Municipal de las Artes (CMA) and Angela Peralta Theater for free performances and art shows.

This year those wishing to see the performances at the CMA and theater must have tickets which are free (4 per family) and available tomorrow at a Cultura booth set up in the Plazuela Machado beginning at 10am. The idea, said Rico, is to regulate the influx of people by dividing them into groups by hour to avoid overcrowding. 

(from Cultura press release)

Mazatlan - 1920

Mazatlán Pays Homage to Pedro Infante April 4 & 5

by Maureen Dietrich

3 Apr 14 

mazmessenger.com

 

Mexican idol Pedro Infante will be honoured in Mazatlán on April 4 and 5, beginning with the inauguration of the remodeled Pedro Infante Museum at Calle Constitución 1108 in El Centro on April 4 at 5pm. At the ribbon cutting will be Infante’s daughter Lupita Infante, along with various civic and religious leaders, followed by a mass at the Cathedral at 6pm.

On Saturday, April 5 at 8:30pm, Mazatlán motorcycle club members will lay a wreath at the foot of the Pedro Infante statue in Olas Altas after which they will ride through El Centro streets to the Plazuela Machado where there will be an exhibition of clothes Infante wore in his movies.

The Plazuela will be alive with music and dance on April 5 beginning at 6pm when several musicians and members of the municipal dance company will perform in honour of the beloved Mexican movie idol. 

(from Noroeste)

Top 5 Reasons to Visit Mazatlan

latinflyer.com  

July 13th, 2012

by Mark Chesnut

Looking to justify your next Mexico beach vacation? In this EXCLUSIVE VIDEO, we jet down to Mexico’s Pearl of the Pacific, to check out the top 5 reasons to visit Mazatlan. 

1. The Beach
It’s no surprise that the #1 reason to visit Mazatlan is the beach. The Zona Dorada, or Golden Zone, is square one for many visitors, thanks to its wide stretches of sand and many hotels. You’ll always find plenty of fun and activities here. 

2. The Historic Center
Downtown Mazatlan is dotted with beautifully restored historic buildings, including the ornate cathedral and lots of postcard-perfect private residences. 

3. The Culture & the Cuisine
Mazatlan offers experiences that few other resort cities can. After all, not many beach destinations are home to a landmark building like the gorgeous Angela Peralta theater, where you can attend live concerts, dance and theater performances. Just a few steps away, you can enjoy live music while dining at lovely open-air restaurants like Pedro y Lola. Wherever you have your lunch and dinner, don’t miss out on Mazatlan’s tasty cuisine — the city is a major shrimp port, so the seafood is especially fresh. 

4. Sightseeing
Be sure to plan at least a day to tour the city of Mazatlan and its surroundings. You can join a guided tour or do it yourself, by taking one of the fun, open-air taxis called pulmonías 

Have your camera ready for the interesting sculptures along the waterfront Malecon — as well as a performance by the Mazatlan cliff divers. I also enjoyed a trip to Stone Island, which includes  a fun boat trip and live music while dining along the beach. 

Also worth the trip is Isla Venado, or Deer Island. The scenic boat ride provides lots of photo opportunities, including — if you’re lucky — an upclose look at a sea lion or two. The final destination — Deer Island — is an unspoiled paradise with lots of sand and good swimming conditions. 

5. Fun Day Trips
Within less than an hour, you can arrive at historic towns, or perhaps learn how to drink homemade agave Tequila-style drinks at Hacienda Los Osuna. Also nearby is Huana Coa, where you can take a fast-paced canopy ride through nature. 

In Mazatlan, you won’t have any problem finding lots to do — although, of course, you could just lie on the beach.

Mazatlán Writers Present Panel at Book Fair

by Maureen Dietrich

17 Mar 14 

mazmessenger.com

 

You are invited to a book fair: FeliMaz2014. FeliMaz is an annual event in Mazatlán, celebrated this year Friday, March 14 through Friday, March 21. All events are free and open to the public.

This year’s fair, FeliMaz2014, offers a panel for English-speakers, a presentation by the well-known Mazatlán Writers Group. This event will be held Thursday, March 20 at 3 p.m., followed by a tour of the fair led by an English-speaking guide at 4.

The Writers Panel includes writers Mike Latta, author of In Deep Salt; David Kindopp, author of Manana Doesn’t Mean Tomorrow; and Angela Jackson, author of Celebrate Life.

FeliMaz2014 marks the twelfth year of the book fair (nine years at the Plazuela Machado and two previous at the university).The fair offers book presentations, classes, storytelling, literary workshops, activities for children, music, puppets, and other shows.

The location of the fair is the Polideportivo (Sports Building) of UAS (Universidad Autonimo de Sinaloa). This location has ample parking and is easy to find at Avenida de los Deportes and Calle Leonismo Internacional. The building Polideportivo is a half block east of the aquarium and opposite the Glorieta del Venado. Parking is located on the west side of the building.

For more information, please see: http://felimaz2014.wordpress.com/.

Arranca hoy la fiesta con los "reflectores" encima

Verenice Peraza

noroeste.com

27-02-2014

. Fotografía: Noroeste.

MAZATLÁN._ La fecha llegó y lo que se espera sea un Carnaval histórico por la afluencia de turistas, tiene otro ingrediente a su favor: Mazatlán se convirtió esta semana en un sitio de referencia a nivel global tras la captura de Joaquín Guzmán Loera en el puerto.

El comercio, el sector restaurantero y la hotelería se dicen listos y reportan reservaciones al tope, mientras la vigilancia policiaca se incrementó en las últimas horas para la fiesta que hoy inicia.

Además, el tráfico vehicular en el puerto aumentó desde la tarde de ayer a raíz del cierre de algunas calles, mientras se espera que este día empiecen los arribos masivos de turistas, principalmente a través de la Supervía Mazatlán-Durango.

El paseo costero y Olas Altas ya fueron inspeccionados en busca de armas. Los puntos de vigilancia fijos, como es el caso de la disco Valentino's, Avenida Carlos Canseco, La Marina e Insurgentes, a la altura de la Avenida Del Mar, no reportan "eventualidades".

De la Sábalo-Cerritos, Camarón-Sábalo y Avenida Del Mar hasta Paseo Claussen, la vigilancia sigue en manos de la Policía Turística y cinco unidades de la Policía Ministerial que realizan patrullajes.

Los servicios de transporte de alquiler también se dicen listos, y aseguran que no habrá abusos en los cobros.

PARA HOY

CORONACIÓN REY DE LA ALEGRÍA

Lugar: Paseo Olas Altas, a la altura de la Mujer Mazatleca.

Hora: 19:30

Artistas: Chuy Lizárraga y su banda Tierra Sinaloense, Horóscopos de Durango.

Pacific Pearl

coastalliving.com

Text by Jeff Book

A classic Mexican resort town, Mazatlán preserves its old-world charm.

Shelley Metcalf

"The beauty of this island is the ocean, the peacefulness, the way you can be yourself without any doubts or regrets." -Joseph Arreola 

Watching the waves from the terrace of El Shrimp Bucket, sipping locally brewed Pacifico between swallows of spicy seviche, you can easily picture the postwar years, the first peak of Mazatlán tourism. Early visitors such as John Wayne and Robert Mitchum came to sportfish, and to party in hotels along Olas Altas beach. The crowds that followed, from the 1960s on, lodged at resorts that sprang up along the miles of sand to the north. But recent years have seen a revival of the town's historic center, with restored buildings housing new restaurants and boutique hotels

This makes Mazatlán a sort of tourism time capsule, offering travelers a range of styles from retro-modern to elegant-traditional to beach shack-funky. It's also a working port, the largest between Los Angeles and the Panama Canal, with some 400,000 inhabitants and genuine Mexican character. Its location―just below the Tropic of Cancer, on the mainland across from the tip of Baja California―ensures balmy weather and bountiful waters. The fleet of fishing boats ensures delicious seafood, especially shrimp. Overshadowed by trendier spots in coastal Mexico, Mazatlán has maintained a quirky appeal all its own.

Start with the town's signature transport, the overgrown golf carts known as pulmonías (pneumonias) for their open sides and breezy rides. Perfect for sightseeing, these zippy taxis suit Mazatlán's relaxed, tropical spirit. They're ideal for motoring from Old Mazatlán to the touristy Zona Dorada (Golden Zone) along a shore-hugging drive dotted with monuments, among them frolicking dolphins, sea nymphs, a heroic fisherman, even a life-size bronze pulmonía. On the seemingly endless strand, sunbathers loll and vendors roam, peddling cold drinks, clothing, jewelry, baskets, henna tattoos, and more. Parasailors take off like kites, pulled aloft by speedboats. And every Sunday evening, the Hotel Playa Mazatlán puts on a whiz-bang show of Mexican-style fireworks, pinwheeling and blazing from the beach.

"No other port in Mexico has this view," declares Conchita Boccard from the patio of Casa Lucila, the small, luxurious hotel the Mazatlán native and her American-born husband, Chris, opened last year. The vista extends from the rugged hills around the historic center, to the distant conga line of hotel towers, to nearby islands that suggest painted backdrops floating in the Pacific.

And no other city in coastal Mexico can claim such a concentration of historic architecture in a pedestrian-friendly core of narrow streets and shady squares. Crumbling facades still outnumber refurbished ones. Even so, it's hard to imagine the beautifully restored Angela Peralta Theater as it was two decades ago, unroofed by a hurricane, a tree growing through the stage. In the adjacent art school, you may glimpse students sculpting or playing marimbas. Steps away lies the parklike Plazuela Machado, an intimate square fringed with restaurant terraces where diners enjoy the evening breeze.

Old Mazatlán's interior courtyards serve as outdoor living rooms, furnished with flowers and fountains. Visitors can soak up serenity over breakfast at the Hotel Melville or Casa de Leyendas (a romantic B&B with very helpful American owners); lunch at Mariscos Bahia, a decades-old favorite for savory seafood; and dinner at Topolo, where watermelon-red walls set off flavorful dishes amusingly billed as "contemporary Prehispanic cuisine."

They also can make the steep hike to Mazatlán's landmark lighthouse―at 515 feet above sea level, said to be the second highest after Gibraltar's―in about an hour, round-trip. Or ride the elevator to the Hotel Freeman's rooftop bar, by Olas Altas beach, for a panorama that stretches from el centro to the port to freighters at sea. You can see it all on a boat tour that stops for lunch at one of the beachfront, thatched-roof restaurants on Isla de la Piedra (Stone Island).

Like the cruise to Stone Island, the diversions of the Golden Zone are worth sampling―La Costa Marinera, for example, a temple to seafood with a version of classic albondigas soup that replaces meatballs with zesty spheres of diced shrimp. And the deep-sea fishing remains superb. But the city also ranks high for performing arts and other cultural activities, notably Mexico's largest Carnival celebration. Its time-tripping styles and fun-loving ways make Mazatlán well worth discovering.

The Movie Lovers Club Begins in January

by Murry Page on 3 Jan 14
mazmessenger.com

Beginning on Wednesday, January 15^th, Mazatlán Film & Theater is going to begin showing classic movies in a series of three at El Recreo. They will be shown on the last three Wednesdays in January, February, and March at 4 p.m. There will be only one showing of a movie.

The series of three movies cost 100 pesos, the purchase of which makes you a member of the Movie Lovers Club.  There will be a maximum of 50 members. Tickets for individual movies can be purchased for 50 pesos each, if there are fewer than 50 club members for a particular series. Club members have a priority of purchasing tickets for the next series of three.

The first series is All Time Favorites and begins with Gone with the Wind. It will be shown on January 15^th. It will be followed by South Pacific on January 22^nd.  The first series will conclude with Casablanca on January 29^th.

The February series is Alfred Hitchcock and includes North by Northwest, Psycho, and To Catch a Thief.

The final series for the season will be shown in March. It will be Classic Mystery Movies. The Postman Always Rings Twice, The Maltese Falcon, and Dial M for Murder will be shown in this series.
Club members can make recommendations for movies to be shown next season.

I think this will be fun and gives us a chance to see some classic movies we have not seen on the big screen in years.

If for some reason you cannot make a particular movie, you can give your ticket to someone else.

If you need information on how to purchase your series tickets, contact murry_page@yahoo.com.

Grand Celebration in Centro Historico on Día de Muertos

by Maureen Dietrich on 22 Oct 13
mazmessenger.com

 

A monumental celebration has been planned by the Instituto de Cultura, Turismo y Arte de Mazatlán (Cultura) in Centro Historico on the evening of November 1.
Raúl Rico, director of Cultura, explained more than 200 artists in seven different disciplines will take part in the celebrations.
Cecilia Sánchez Duarte, in charge of coordinating the evening, said there will be 13 installations in buildings in the historic center where people will be admitted 100 at a time to enjoy the displays.
In the lobbies and galleries of the Angela Peralta Theater artists will display their paintings accompanied by musicians and students from the municipal ballet school. Among three large altars at the theater will be one fashioned by local sculptor Sergio Flores.
Día de Meurtos in the Centro Historico begins at 6pm with a performance of the Faure Requiem in the Angela Peralta Theater, followed by the traditional callejoneada walk through the streets of the historic center at 8pm. Beginning 9pm music, dance and art exhibitions will be open to the public at the Municipal Center of the Arts, galleries and the theatre. (from Noroeste)