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Boat
Vehicle and passenger ferries connecting Baja California with the Mexican mainland sail between Santa Rosalía and Guaymas, La Paz and Mazatlán, and La Paz
and Topolobampo. One-way passenger seat fares cost from M$550 to M$800;
a car up to 5m in length costs between M$1000 and M$2500. There are
also ferries from the Yucatán Peninsula to the islands of Isla Mujeres, Isla Cozumel and Isla Holbox.
Hitching
Hitchhiking
Hitchhiking is never entirely safe in any country in
the world, and is not recommended. Travelers who decide to hitch should
understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk.
People who do choose to hitch will be safer if they travel in pairs and
let someone know where they are planning to go. A woman traveling alone
certainly should not hitchhike in Mexico, and even two women alone is
not advisable.
However, hitching is not an uncommon way of getting
to some off-the-beaten-track places poorly served by bus. Always be
alert to possible dangers wherever you are. If the driver is another
tourist or a private motorist, you may get the ride for free. If it is a
work or commercial vehicle, you should offer to pay, something
equivalent to the bus fare.
Bus & tram
Bus
Mexico has a good road and bus network, and
comfortable, frequent, reasonably priced bus services connect all
cities. Most cities and towns have one main bus terminal where all
long-distance buses arrive and depart. It may be called the Terminal de
Autobuses, Central de Autobuses, Central Camionera or simply La Central
(not to be confused with
el centro, the city center!) If there
is no single main terminal, different bus companies will have separate
terminals scattered around town.
Baggage is safe if stowed in the
bus’ baggage hold, but get a receipt for it when you hand it over. Keep
your most valuable documents (passport, money etc) in the cabin with
you, and keep them closely protected.
Highway robbery happens very
rarely. The risk is higher at night, on isolated stretches of highway
far from cities, and in 2nd-class buses.
Deluxe
De lujo services, sometimes termed
ejecutivo
(executive), run mainly on the busy routes. They are swift, modern and
comfortable, with reclining seats, adequate legroom, air-con, few or no
stops, toilets on board (but not necessarily toilet paper), and
sometimes drinks or snacks. They usually show movies on video screens.
First class
Primera (1a) clase buses have a comfortable
numbered seat for each passenger. All sizable towns have 1st-class bus
services. Standards of comfort are adequate at the very least. The buses
usually have air-conditioning and a toilet and they stop infrequently.
They always show movies (often bad ones) for most of the trip: too bad
if you don’t want to watch, as all seats face a video screen.
Bring
a sweater or jacket to combat overzealous air-conditioning. As with
deluxe buses, you buy your ticket in the bus station before boarding.
Second class
Segunda (2a) clase buses serve small towns and
villages, and provide cheaper, slower travel on some intercity routes. A
few are almost as quick, comfortable and direct as 1st-class buses.
Others are old, slow and shabby.
Many 2nd-class services have no
ticket office; you just pay your fare to the conductor. These buses tend
to take slow, non-toll roads in and out of big cities and will stop
anywhere to pick up passengers: if you board midroute you might make
some of the trip standing. The small amount of money you save by
traveling 2nd-class is not usually worth the discomfort or extra journey
time entailed.
Second-class buses can also be less safe than
1st-class or deluxe buses, for reasons of maintenance or driver
standards or because they are more vulnerable to being boarded by
bandits on some roads. Out in the remoter areas, however, you’ll often
find that 2nd-class buses are the only buses available.
Microbuses
or ‘micros’ are small, usually fairly new, 2nd-class buses with around
25 seats, usually running short routes between nearby towns.
Costs
First-class buses typically cost around M$50 to M$70
per hour of travel (70km to 80km). Deluxe buses may cost just 10% or 20%
more than 1st class, or about 60% more for super-deluxe services such
as ETN, UNO and Turistar Ejecutivo. Second-class buses cost 10% or 20%
less than 1st class.
Reservations
For trips of up to four or five hours on busy routes,
you can usually just go to the bus terminal, buy a ticket and head out
without much delay. For longer trips, or routes with infrequent service,
buy a ticket a day or more in advance. Deluxe and 1st-class bus
companies have computerized ticket systems that allow you to select your
seat when you buy your ticket. Try to avoid the back of the bus, which
is where the toilets are and also tends to give a bumpier ride.
Ticketbus (in Mexico City
55-5133-2424, 800-702-80-00;
www.ticketbus.com.mx)
provides tickets and reservations for many bus companies, chiefly on
routes in the center, south and southeast of Mexico. You can book via
the internet or telephone, or at any of its many offices in 44 cities
and towns.
If you pay for a bus ticket in cash, cash refunds of
80% to 100% are available from many bus companies if you return your
ticket more than an hour or two before the listed departure time.
Colectivos & other vehicles
In some areas a variety of small vehicles provide alternatives to buses.
Colectivo
(collective) taxis, Volkswagen minibuses (combis) and more comfortable
passenger-carrying vans, such as Chevrolet Suburbans, operate shuttle
services between some towns, usually leaving whenever they have a full
load of passengers. Fares are typically a little less than 1st-class
buses. Microbuses or ‘micros’ are small, usually fairly new, 2nd-class
buses with around 25 seats, usually running short routes between nearby
towns. More primitive are passenger-carrying
camionetas (pickups) and
camiones (trucks) with fares similar to 2nd-class bus fares. Standing in the back of a lurching truck with a couple of dozen
campesinos (land workers) and their machetes and animals is always an experience to remember!
Car & motorcycle
Driving in Mexico is not as easy as it is north of the
border, and rentals are more expensive, but having a vehicle gives you
maximum flexibility and freedom.
Bring your own vehicle
Bringing a car to Mexico is most useful for travelers who:
- have plenty of time
- like to get off the beaten track
- have surfboards, diving equipment or other cumbersome luggage
- will be traveling with at least one companion.
Drivers
should know at least a little Spanish and have basic mechanical
knowledge, reserves of patience and access to extra cash for
emergencies. Good makes of car to take to Mexico are Volkswagen, Nissan,
Chrysler, General Motors and Ford, which have plants in Mexico and
dealers in most big towns. Very big cars are unwieldy on narrow roads
and use a lot of gasoline. A sedan with a trunk (boot) provides safer
storage than a station wagon or hatchback. Mexican mechanics are
resourceful, and most repairs can be done quickly and inexpensively, but
it still pays to take as many spare parts as you can manage (spare fuel
filters are very useful). Tires (including spare), shock absorbers and
suspension should be in good condition.
For security, have something to
immobilize the steering wheel, and consider getting a kill switch
installed.
Motorcycling in Mexico is not for the fainthearted.
Roads and traffic can be rough, and parts and mechanics hard to come by.
The parts you’ll most easily find will be for Kawasaki, Honda and
Suzuki bikes.
Driver’s license
To drive a motor vehicle in Mexico, you need a valid driver’s license from your home country.
Gas (petrol)
All
gasolina (gasoline) and diesel fuel in
Mexico is sold by the government’s monopoly, Pemex (Petróleos
Mexicanos). Most towns, even small ones, have a Pemex station, and the
stations are pretty common on most major roads. Nevertheless, in remote
areas you should fill up whenever you can.
The gasoline on sale is all
sin plomo
(unleaded). There are two varieties: Magna Sin, roughly equivalent to
US regular unleaded, and Premium, roughly equivalent to US super
unleaded. At the time of research, Magna Sin cost about M$7 per liter
(US$2.40 per US gallon), and Premium about M$8.75. Diesel fuel is widely
available at around M$6 per liter. Regular Mexican diesel has a higher
sulfur content than US diesel, but there is a ‘Diesel Sin’ with less
sulfur. If diesel drivers change their oil and filter about every
3500km, they should have no problems.
Gas stations have pump attendants (who appreciate a tip of M$2 to M$5).
Insurance
It is very foolish to drive in Mexico without Mexican
liability insurance. If you are involved in an accident, you can be
jailed and have your vehicle impounded while responsibility is
assessed. If you are to blame for an accident causing injury or death,
you may be detained until you guarantee restitution to the victims and
payment of any fines. This could take weeks or months. Adequate Mexican
insurance coverage is the only real protection: it is regarded as a
guarantee that restitution will be paid, and will expedite release of
the driver.
Mexican law recognizes only Mexican motor insurance
(seguro), so a US or Canadian policy, even if it provides coverage, is not acceptable to Mexican officialdom. Sanborn’s and the
American Automobile Association (AAA;
www.aaa.com)
are worth looking into for Mexico motor insurance. Mexican insurance is
also sold in US border towns; as you approach the border from the US
you will see billboards advertising offices selling Mexican policies. At
the busier border crossings, such as those to Tijuana, Mexicali, Nogales, Agua Prieta, Ciudad Juárez, Nuevo Laredo, Reynosa and Matamoros, there are insurance offices open 24 hours a day. Some deals are better than others.
Short-term
insurance is about US$15 a day for full coverage on a car worth under
US$10, 000; for periods longer than two weeks it’s often cheaper to get
an annual policy. Liability-only insurance costs around half the full
coverage cost.
Insurance is considered invalid if the driver is under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
Maps
Mexican signposting can be poor, and decent road maps are essential. A Mexican road atlas such as Guía Roji’s
Por Las Carreteras de México
(M$175) is a worthwhile investment. It’s sold at bookstores and some
newsstands in Mexico, and is available from internet booksellers for a
little more. A new edition is published annually and includes most new
highways. Also useful are Quimera publisher’s regional road maps.
Rental
Auto rental in Mexico is expensive by US or European
standards, but is not hard to organize. You can book by internet,
telephone or in person and pick up cars at city offices, airports, many
big hotels and sometimes at bus terminals.
Renters must provide a
valid driver’s license (your home license is OK), passport and major
credit card, and are usually required to be at least 21 (sometimes 25,
or if you’re aged 21 to 24 you may have to pay a surcharge). Read the
small print of the rental agreement. In addition to the basic rental
rate, you pay tax and insurance costs to the rental company. Note:
comprehensive insurance can almost double the basic cost quoted in some
internet bookings: you’ll usually have the option of taking
liability-only insurance at a lower rate. Ask exactly what the insurance
options cover: theft and damage insurance may only cover a percentage
of costs, or the insurance might not be valid for travel on rough
country tracks. It’s best to have plenty of liability coverage: Mexican
law permits the jailing of drivers after an accident until they have met
their obligations to third parties. The complimentary car-rental
insurance offered with some US credit cards does not usually cover
Mexico.
Most agencies offer a choice between a per-kilometer deal
or unlimited kilometers. Local firms may or may not be cheaper than the
big international ones. In most places the cheapest car available costs
M$500 to M$600 a day including unlimited kilometers, insurance and tax.
If you rent by the week or month, the per-day cost can come down by 20%
to 40%. You can also cut costs by avoiding airport pickups and
drop-offs, for which 10% can be added to your total check. The extra
charge for drop-off in another city, when available, is usually about
M$4 per kilometer.
Here’s contact information (with Mexican phone numbers) for some major firms:
Alamo (
800-849-80-01;
www.alamo.com)
Avis (
800-288-88-88;
www.avis.com.mx)
Budget (
800-700-17-00;
www.budget.com.mx)
Dollar (
998-886-02-22;
www.dollar.com)
Europcar (
800-201-20-84;
www.europcar.com.mx)
Hertz (
800-709-50-00;
www.hertz.com)
National (
800-716-66-25;
www.nationalcar.com.mx)
Thrifty (
55-5207-1100;
www.thrifty.com.mx)
Motorbikes
or scooters are available to rent in a few tourist centers. You’re
usually required to have a driver’s license and credit card. It’s
advisable to look particularly carefully into insurance arrangements
here: some renters do not offer any insurance at all. Note that a
locally acquired motorcycle license is not valid under some
travel-insurance policies.
Road conditions
Many Mexican highways, even some toll highways, are not
up to the standards of US, Canadian or European ones. Still, the main
roads are serviceable and fairly fast when traffic is not heavy.
Mexicans on the whole drive as cautiously and sensibly as people
anywhere. Traffic density, poor surfaces and frequent hazards (potholes,
speed bumps, animals, bicycles, children) all help to keep speeds down.
Driving
on a dark night is best avoided since unlit vehicles, rocks,
pedestrians and animals on the roads are common. Hijacks and robberies
do occur.
In towns and cities and on rural roads, be especially wary of
Alto (Stop) signs,
topes
(speed bumps) and holes in the road. They are often not where you’d
expect, and missing one can cost you in traffic fines or car damage.
Speed bumps are also used to slow traffic on highways that pass through
built-up areas.
‘Tope’ or
‘Vibradores’ signs give you a
warning about most speed bumps: the deadly ones are the ones with no
warning signs – and if you hit them at any speed, you and your car will
get quite a shock.
There is always the chance that you will be
pulled over by Mexican traffic police for an imaginary infraction. If
this happens, stay calm and polite and don’t be in a hurry. You don’t
have to pay a bribe, and acting dumb and not understanding Spanish may
eventually make the cop give up. You can also ask to see documentation
about the law you have supposedly broken, ask for the officer’s
identification, ask to speak to a superior, and/or note the officer’s
name, badge number, vehicle number and department (federal, state or
municipal). Pay any traffic fines at a police station and get a receipt,
then if you wish to make a complaint head for a state tourist office.
City parking
It’s not usually a good idea to park on the street
overnight. If your hotel doesn’t have parking, it’s best to find a
commercial
estacionamiento (parking lot). These usually cost around M$50 overnight and M$10 to M$15 per hour during the day.
Motorcycle hazards
Certain aspects of Mexican roads make them particularly hazardous for motorcyclists:
poor signage of road and lane closures
lots of dogs on the roads
debris and deep potholes
vehicles without taillights
lack of highway lighting
Toll roads
Mexico has more than 6000km of
autopistas
(toll roads), usually four-lane. They are generally in much better
condition and a lot quicker than the alternative free roads.
Cuotas (tolls) average about M$1 per km. Toll information is available at
www.sct.gob.mx: click on ‘Traza Tu Ruta.’
Road rules
Drive on the right-hand side of the road.
Speed
limits range between 80km and 120km per hour on open highways (less when
highways pass through built-up areas), and between 30km and 50km per
hour in towns and cities. Seat belts are obligatory for all occupants of
a car, and children under five must be strapped into safety seats in
the rear. Obeying speed limits, traffic rules and traffic signs will
avoid giving police excuses to demand ‘fines’ payable on the spot.
One-way
streets are the rule in cities. Priority at some street intersections
is indicated by thin black and red rectangles containing white arrows. A
black rectangle facing you means you have priority; a red one means you
don’t. The white arrows indicate the direction of traffic on the cross
street; if the arrow points both ways, it’s a two-way street.
Antipollution rules in Mexico City ban most vehicles from the city’s roads on one day each week.
Train
The spectacular Ferrocarril Chihuahua al Pacífico that runs between Los Mochis and Chihuahua,
known in English as the Copper Canyon Railway, is one of the highlights
of traveling in Mexico. But the remainder of Mexico’s regular passenger
train system effectively ceased to exist after the railroads were
privatized in the 1990s. The very few services remaining operate on
routes that are of no interest to travelers or are special tourist
excursion services. Most prominent among the latter group is the
Tequila Express (
www.tequilaexpress.com.mx) running between Guadalajara and the tequila-distilling town of Amatitán.
Local transport
Bicycle
Most Mexican towns and cities are flat enough to make
cycling an option. Seek out the less traffic-infested routes and you
should enjoy it. Even Mexico City has its biking enthusiasts. You can rent bikes in several towns and cities for M$100 to M$150 per day.
Boat
Here and there you may find yourself traveling by boat
to an outlying beach, along a river or across a lake or lagoon. The
craft are usually fast outboard
lanchas (launches). Fares vary
widely: an average is around M$10 a minute if you have to charter the
whole boat (haggle!), or around M$10 for five to 10 minutes if it’s a
public service.
Local buses
Generally known as
camiones, local buses are
often the cheapest way to get around cities and out to nearby towns and
villages. They run frequently and are cheap. Fares in cities are rarely
more than M$5. In many cities, fleets of small, modern
microbuses have replaced the noisy, dirty and crowded older buses.
Buses usually halt only at fixed
paradas (bus stops), though in some places you can hold your hand out to stop one at any street corner.
Colectivo, combi, minibus & pesero
These are all names for vehicles that function as
something between a taxi and a bus, running along fixed urban routes
usually displayed on the windshield. They’re cheaper than taxis and
quicker than buses. They will pick you up or drop you off on any corner
along their route: to stop one, go to the curb and wave your hand. Tell
the driver where you want to go. Usually, you pay at the end of the trip
and the fare (a little higher than a bus fare) depends on how far you
go. In some northern border towns, ‘pesero’ is used to mean a city bus.
Metro
Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey all have metro (subway, underground railway) systems. Mexico City’s,
in particular, is a quick, cheap and useful way of getting around. With
175 stations and used by over four million people every weekday, it’s
the world’s third-busiest subway.
Taxi
Taxis are common in towns and cities, and surprisingly
economical. City rides cost around M$10 per kilometer, and in some
cities there’s a fixed rate for journeys within defined central areas.
If a taxi has a meter, you can ask the driver if it’s working
(‘¿Funciona el taxímetro?’).
If it’s not, or if the taxi doesn’t have a meter, establish the price
of the ride before getting in (this may involve a bit of haggling).
Some
airports and big bus terminals have a system of authorized
ticket-taxis: you buy a fixed-price ticket to your destination from a
special
taquilla (ticket window) and then hand it to the driver
instead of paying cash. This saves haggling and major rip-offs, but
fares are usually higher than you could get on the street.
In some (usually rural) areas, some taxis operate on a
colectivo basis,
following set routes, often from one town or village to another, and
picking up or dropping off passengers anywhere along that route. Fares
per person are around one-quarter of the normal cab fare.
Renting a taxi for a day’s out-of-town outing generally costs something similar to a cheap rental car – around M$500 or M$600.
Air
All large and many smaller cities in Mexico have
airports and passenger services. Depending on the fare you get, flying
can be good value on longer journeys, especially considering the long
bus trip that is probably the alternative. Domestic flights within
Mexico are sometimes cheaper if you book them before you go to Mexico,
in conjunction with an international round-trip ticket.
Fares
Fares can depend on whether you fly at a busy or quiet
time of day, week or year, and how far ahead you book and pay. High
season generally corresponds to the Mexican holiday seasons. You’ll
often save money if you pay for the ticket a few days ahead or if you
fly late in the evening. Round-trip fares are usually simply twice the
price of one-way tickets, though some cheaper advance-payment deals do
exist.
Typical one-way fares from Mexico City
with nonbudget airlines to most Mexican cities are between about M$1300
and M$2100 including taxes and charges, depending mainly on distance.
Low-cost airlines flying from Toluca, 50km west of Mexico City, may charge up to 50% less.
Bicycle
Cycling is not a common way to tour Mexico. The size of
the country, reports of highway robbery, poor road surfaces, careless
motorists and pedestrians and other road hazards are deterrents.
However, biking around is certainly possible if you’re prepared for the
challenges. You should be fit, use the best equipment, and be fully able
to handle your own repairs. Take the mountainous topography and hot
climate into account when planning your route. Bike lanes are rare.
All
cities have bicycle stores: a decent mountain bike suitable for a few
weeks’ touring costs around M$5000. Don’t expect to get much of that
back by selling it afterwards unless you have time on your side.
If you’re interested in a long Mexican ride, consider the bring-your-own-bike tours of the Yucatán Peninsula, Chiapas, Oaxaca, Pacific Mexico and Michoacán, up to a month long, offered by the fun and friendly
!El Tour (
www.bikemexico.com).
Miss at your peril: (stay away from the crowds) - '
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